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He’s Cute – But Will He Hunt?

Beth Ann Amico, © May 2005

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Waterfowlers understand the importance of life-like decoys, high-grade shotguns and artistically crafted duck calls.  Yet when it comes time to select a canine hunting partner, many of these otherwise discriminating hunters often succumb to sentimentality at the first sight of a litter of wriggling puppies.  Selecting a high quality hunting retriever puppy is more crucial to a hunter’s overall success than all of her equipment combined.  A selection based solely on the cuteness factor is likely to be a mistake.
 
Look for a reputable breeder who breeds for performance.  Performance dog breeders require the same attributes in a dog that hunters do:  (1) trainability; (2) the ability to “mark” or perceive and remember the area of a fallen bird; (3) the instinctual love of birds and water; and (4) the ability to concentrate.  Given that all these characteristics are inheritable traits, one can see the need for sound, selective breeding practices.  It is important to remember that the best stock is closely held within the retriever sport community and not typically advertised through more common venues such as the local newspaper.  Professional retriever trainers are often among the best sources for advice on locating reputable performance dog breeders.  Through their training experience, they know which bloodlines possess the attributes you are looking for.
 
Once you have selected several breeders to contact, you should ask these pertinent questions:
 
1.                   What is the pedigree of the litter?  Working retriever pedigrees are made up of bloodlines and their respective field titles.  Common titles include Field Champion, Master Hunting Retriever and Hunting Retriever Champion.  Dogs holding these titles have shown through competitive testing that they are intelligent, trainable animals and possess high levels of prey drive.  The closer the working titles are the parentage, the better, because the “blood” is less diluted.  On the other hand, conformation or show titles (designed as “CH”) carry much less weight because they have relatively nothing to do with a dog’s working ability.
 
2.                   How are the parents registered?  Purebred dogs are registered with the American Kennel Club (AKC).  For sporting dogs, there is also the United Kennel Club (UKC).  A dog that is registered with the AKC can easily be dual-registered with the UKC.  Both registries offer pedigrees; however they will only reflect titles awarded by their own organization.
 
3.                   Is this a repeat breeding?  Repeat breedings can serve as strong indicators as to whether or not the particular match of sire and dam works, because the breeder should be able to provide some feedback as to the success of the previous progeny.
 
4.                   Do both parents have OFA and CERF certifications?  The OFA or Orthopedic Foundation for Animals maintains a genetic database for breeders addressing hip dysplasia and other orthopedic issues.  The Canine Eye Registration Foundation or CERF keeps a registry of purebred dogs which have been examined and found to be unaffected by major heritable genetic eye diseases such as retinal atrophy.  Reputable breeders use these databases as a culling mechanism in order to sustain quality breeding stock.  It is an industry standard for breeders to provide these certifications.  However, having parents with certified hips and eyes does not guarantee that their progeny will not develop these problems later in life.  This fact in turn supports the use of genetic health guarantees.
 
5.                   What type of health guarantee does the breeder offer?  Most breeders offer a two year genetic health guarantee with provisions for a replacement animal or refund if the dog is proven through testing to possess a genetic defect.  There is no age minimum for a CERF eye examination; however, OFA requires that the animal be at least 24 months old before testing its hips, hence the reasoning behind a two year time period for genetic guarantees.
 
6.                   Can you afford a bargain pup that drops the duck in mid-stream? Generally, the price of a puppy is commensurate with the quality of the pedigree.  Quality puppies cost more, but remember that the money you spend buying a puppy is just as much a long-term investment as the money spent on your shotgun or duck boat.  Quality puppies are a lot easier to train and don’t cost any more to feed than a “bargain”.
 
7.                   Can the breeder provide references?  Reputable breeders welcome the opportunity to share the names of satisfied clients who have purchased puppies from them in the past.
 
Be prepared to talk to several breeders for comparison.  Most importantly, don’t get in a hurry to buy a puppy - quality puppies come on their own time schedule.  Remember this and be patient or most likely, you’ll end up regretting the one you bought on impulse.
 
Once you have found a breeder with a promising litter, make an appointment to evaluate the pups.  Puppy evaluations and subsequent selection are typically done when the pups are 7 weeks old.  To ensure that the pups will be “on their toes”, schedule your evaluation either early or late in the day and before they have eaten.  It’s helpful to take a notebook to write down your observations.  Be careful not to cloud your decision-making process with preconceived notions about sex or color.  When selecting a working retriever, gender and color should be secondary to ability and talent.
 
To begin your evaluation, take note of the facilities and the puppies’ environment.  Observe how the pups have been kept, if their pen is free of waste and that clean, fresh water has been provided.  A fly-infested, dirty pen could have exposed them to potentially deadly viruses that can overwhelm their fledgling immune systems.  Be sure to inquire about the pups’ health and inoculation records.  If the parents are available, see if they possess an athletic conformation and workman-like temperament.
 
One of the most important evaluations you can make is how “birdy” the pups are.  This is measured by observing how much “prey drive” they exhibit.  Prey drive, or the instinct to chase and subdue game, is the inherited trait that enables a dog to be trained to mark, scent and trail.  One common test to determine birdiness requires an enclosed area and a live pigeon.  Pigeons are commonly used for this test because they have game bird scent.  A simple 10 x 10 foot pen can be made with a roll of chicken wire and t-posts.  This size will allow adequate room for a puppy to chase the pigeon, and the pen can be set up and taken down quickly.
 
Clip the pigeon’s flight feathers along the length of its wings so it can flap its wings and attract the pup’s attention, but not fly away.  Next, hold the pigeon at eye level with the puppy and gently tease the pup by pulling the bird away.  If necessary, use your voice to try to excite the pup.  Now, step out of the pen and allow the pup to chase the bird.  Look for the bold, aggressive pup which shows no fear of the flapping wings and immediately chases and carries the bird.  The pup which initially shows hesitation, as if he’s trying to figure out how best to grab the bird, but then goes after it, is acceptable, although not as impressive.  Needless to say, the pup that shies away from the bird, tries to hide in the corner, or shows no interest in the bird at all, is to be avoided.
 
Of equal importance is how “fetchy” the pups are.  Fetchiness is another indicator of the strength of a pup’s prey drive.  Trigger the pup’s prey drive by pulling a squeaky puppy toy away from it.  As he begins to chase, flick the toy a short distance across the ground.  Be careful not to throw the toy up in the air or toss it too far away, because a pup’s eyesight is not fully developed at this young age.  What is most important to observe is the pup’s desire to actively chase and carry the toy.  Don’t expect the pup to bring the toy back to you – that is trained behavior.  What you are looking for is the pup’s desire to chase and carry.
 
Once you have identified the birdiest and fetchiest pups, you are ready to sort out the more subtle differences between them.  Make a high-pitched sound and watch for the pup that looks at you with curiosity.  This behavior is not to be confused with that of the puppy to tries to solicit your attention by jumping or licking.  You want to find a puppy which shows a natural inclination to pay attention, an important indicator of ease of trainability.
 
Finally, take the pups that have successfully passed the previous tests and move them to a different place.  Typically, pups are raised in a specific area and that’s all they are familiar with.  Take a group of two or three pups at a time, set them down in an environment that is unfamiliar to them, and observe their initial reaction to their new surroundings.  Do they cower or jump up and begin investigating immediately?  A pup that can cope and adapt to changes quickly has confidence and heart.
 
By following these guidelines, you should be confident about your pick of the litter.  The pup you selected will have shown the all-important traits of birdiness, fetchiness, the preponderance to pay attention and self-reliance.  Now the real fun begins.  With proper training and development, your pup will mature into a valued hunting partner – one that will reward you with many memorable years in the field.    

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